Spathiphyllum: the tropical plant that loves shade… but not neglect
Do take a look at this video (in French): a nice YouTube channel to discover, made by real plant lovers.
With its glossy leaves and white inflorescences standing up like little flags, the Spathiphyllum brings a tropical touch to the home without demanding direct sun. It is often called the "peace lily", but that name can be misleading: the Spathiphyllum is not a true lily.
And despite its reputation as an easy plant, it appreciates a certain regularity, especially in watering, light and warmth.
Key point: Spathiphyllum is a botanical genus containing several dozen species. Size, appearance and precise needs can vary with the species and the cultivar sold.
1. An aroid, not a lily
The Spathiphyllum belongs to the Araceae family, like Anthurium, Philodendron, Monstera, Alocasia and Dieffenbachia. These are herbaceous perennials, generally evergreen, many of them native to tropical regions. Its name comes from the Greek spathê (blade, spatula) and phyllon (leaf), referring to the white, leaf-like bract that accompanies the inflorescence.
In the wild, Spathiphyllum grow mainly in the warm, humid understorey of tropical forests, often near streams. The genus ranges across tropical America (from Mexico to Brazil, with great diversity in Colombia and Venezuela), but also Malesia and the western Pacific. The canopy filters the light, while water drains through an airy soil: "understorey plant" therefore means neither permanent darkness nor soggy compost.
Common houseplants include Spathiphyllum wallisii and many horticultural hybrids. Names such as 'Mauna Loa', 'Cupido' or 'Bellini' refer to cultivars or commercial selections, not botanical species. A label that just says "spathiphyllum" therefore does not always tell you exactly which plant it is.
Spathe and spadix: what is often taken for a large white flower is an inflorescence. The spathe is the white bract that accompanies the spadix, the spike bearing the tiny flowers.
The spathe often turns green as it ages. In good conditions, the plant produces inflorescences in waves or at certain times of year. It can form fruit and seeds after pollination, but this is rare indoors.
2. A brief history
- Description of the genus (1832): the Austrian botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott described the genus Spathiphyllum in 1832, in the Meletemata Botanica.
- The star species (1870s): Spathiphyllum wallisii is named after the German plant collector Gustav Wallis, who travelled tropical South America for European nurseries. The species, described in the 1870s, is behind many houseplant cultivars, alongside other species such as S. floribundum and S. cannifolium.
- Hybridisation (second half of the 20th century): breeders, first in the United States and then in Europe, created sturdier, more free-flowering plants better suited to indoor life. Today there are dozens of cultivars, from giant forms (such as 'Sensation') to variegated forms prized by collectors (such as 'Domino' or 'Picasso').
- The NASA study (1989): a NASA study on air quality in sealed chambers (the NASA Clean Air Study) ranked the Spathiphyllum among plants able to absorb certain pollutants (benzene, formaldehyde, trichloroethylene). The argument went round the world and did much for its success in offices. More recent work shows, however, that in a real, ventilated home the effect of a few plants on air quality is negligible: grow it for its beauty, not as an air purifier.
3. Where should you put it?
Indirect light and steady warmth
Place your Spathiphyllum in a bright spot, out of strong direct sun, which can bleach or scorch its leaves. It tolerates partial shade, but light that is too low reduces flowering.
This plant likes a steady temperature (ideally between 18 and 25 °C) and dislikes cold, draughts and sudden changes. Avoid placing it near a radiator, a heating vent or air conditioning. A bright bathroom can suit it if it stays warm enough: humidity does not make up for a lack of light.
Moist but never soggy compost
Choose a pot with drainage holes and a mix that holds a little moisture while letting excess water drain away. A houseplant compost enriched with fine bark, coir or perlite works well. Avoid heavy garden soil and oversized pots: a large volume of compost can stay wet around the roots for a long time.
Water when the surface of the compost starts to dry, then let the excess drain and empty the saucer. The compost should stay slightly moist, without the roots sitting in water. A thirsty Spathiphyllum collapses dramatically and perks up again after watering; frequent wilting, however, means you should water more regularly.
My tip: the plant needs to "suffer" a little to flower. A pot in which it feels slightly cramped encourages flowering, and letting the surface of the compost dry out now and then can also help.
Tip: when repotting, a pot just slightly larger is enough. Repot when the roots have filled the space or the compost has broken down, preferably in spring, as growth resumes.
Humidity and leaf care
Very dry air encourages brown tips, especially in winter. Keep the plant away from heat sources and, if necessary, gently raise the humidity: group several plants together or use a clean, well-maintained humidifier. A tray of moist clay pebbles can also help, as long as the bottom of the pot is not sitting in water.
Misting does not replace proper watering or good air circulation. To keep the leaves clean, simply wipe them with a damp cloth.
Cut off yellow leaves and faded inflorescences near their base with a clean tool. After flowering, remove the stalk once the spathe has turned green or brown or lost its decorative appeal. Do not remove healthy leaves: they feed the plant. A houseplant fertiliser can be used sparingly during the growing season, following the label instructions.
4. How do you propagate it?
For a well-developed plant, dividing the clump is the simplest method. When repotting, gently separate groups of shoots, keeping roots and part of the crown for each. Only use a clean, disinfected knife if the roots are very tangled.
Replant each division in a pot with holes suited to its size, water moderately and keep it warm, in indirect light. A small division or a piece without roots may be slow to recover, or even die. It is best not to divide a weakened or infested plant.
Growing from seed is possible, but seed production is rare indoors. Growers propagate cultivars by tissue culture (in vitro).
5. Common problems: reading the signs
| Symptom | Possible cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Drooping leaves and dry compost | Lack of water | Water, then let the excess drain |
| Yellow leaves and constantly wet compost | Overwatering or damaged roots | Check drainage, empty the saucer and let the surface dry slightly |
| Pale, bleached or scorched leaves | Direct sun too strong | Move the plant to indirect light |
| Brown or dry tips | Dry air or irregular care | Move away from heat sources and raise humidity moderately |
| Few or no inflorescences | Too little light, pot too big or weakened plant | Check the light, pot size and general condition of the plant |
| Sticky leaves or visible insects | Aphids or mealybugs | Isolate the plant, remove the insects and choose a treatment suitable for houseplants |
A plant that declines despite moist compost deserves special attention: overwatering and poor drainage damage the roots. Before any treatment, identify the problem as far as possible and follow the instructions of the product used.
6. Toxicity: take care with children and pets
The Spathiphyllum is not an edible plant. Like many aroids, it contains irritant calcium oxalate crystals: if chewed, it causes burning and swelling of the mouth, heavy drooling and sometimes vomiting; its sap can also irritate the skin and eyes. Keep the plant out of reach of young children and pets, and avoid touching your eyes after handling it. Gloves can be useful if you have sensitive skin.
The distinction from true lilies is particularly important for cat owners. Plants of the genus Lilium, as well as daylilies (Hemerocallis), can cause severe kidney failure in cats, a different risk from that of the Spathiphyllum. That does not make the latter harmless: if an animal has chewed part of it, or if you are unsure which plant it is, contact a vet quickly. Do not wait for symptoms and do not induce vomiting without professional advice. For a child, call a poison centre (in Belgium: 070 245 245; elsewhere, your local poison control centre).
7. In short
The Spathiphyllum thrives in indirect light, steady warmth and compost that is slightly moist without being soggy. It shows when it is thirsty by drooping, but this easy signal is no excuse for irregular watering or poor drainage. Once settled, it forms an elegant clump of foliage and offers its white spathes over the seasons.
Sources
- Kew, Plants of the World Online: taxonomy and native range of the genus Spathiphyllum.
- Royal Horticultural Society (RHS): growing advice and precautions about potentially harmful plants.
- University of Florida IFAS Extension: propagation and commercial production.
- Wolverton, B. C. et al. (1989), Interior Landscape Plants for Indoor Air Pollution Abatement, NASA; Cummings, B. E. and Waring, M. S. (2020), "Potted plants do not improve indoor air quality", Journal of Exposure Science & Environmental Epidemiology.
- ASPCA: plant toxicity for animals, including true lilies and daylilies.
Classification, the number of recognised species and growing recommendations may vary with taxonomic updates, the species, the cultivar and growing conditions.