Garden Notebook

Plants, gardening and good tools, between passion and practice

Home

Top 10 Araceae for the flat: beautiful plants and care tips

Top 10 Araceae for the flat: beautiful plants and care tips

Daniel Platteau

Why choose an Araceae for your home?

The Araceae, or aroids, form a large family of tropical plants recognisable by their inflorescence made up of a spadix surrounded by a spathe. As houseplants, they are grown mainly for their spectacular foliage: the split leaves of the Monstera, the variegation of the Pothos, the contrasting veins of the Alocasia, or the graphic habit of the ZZ plant.

They have another advantage: there's an Araceae for almost every room. Climbing species can be trained up a moss pole or left to trail from a shelf, compact forms fit on a desk, and large plants can structure a living room. Most enjoy bright filtered light, an airy substrate, and moderate watering rather than constantly waterlogged soil.

The right instinct is to choose the plant based on the light actually available. A very bright window with sheer curtains suits the Anthurium; a dimmer corner is better suited to the Pothos or the ZZ plant. That said, no plant can survive long-term in a room with no natural light at all: a grow light can then supplement the lighting.

Illustration: photo of a potted Monstera deliciosa, CC BY-SA 4.0 licence.

The 10 best Araceae for the flat

1. Monstera deliciosa: the emblematic tropical plant

The Monstera deliciosa, also called the Swiss cheese plant, is the most obvious choice for instantly giving your living room a jungle feel. Its large leaves gradually split when it gets enough light and a support to climb. A young specimen stays reasonably sized on a shelf, while a mature plant becomes a genuine piece of living furniture.

  • Light: bright and indirect; avoid scorching midday sun behind a window.
  • Watering: once the top few centimetres of substrate are dry, then let it drain well.
  • Substrate: a free-draining mix of potting soil, bark and perlite, in a pot with drainage holes.
  • Care: clean the leaves, stake the stems, and rotate the pot regularly for balanced growth.
  • Who is it for?: beginners with a bit of space who want a plant with spectacular foliage.

Leaves that are barely split or small often indicate a lack of light, a still-young specimen, or the absence of a support. Don't compensate for low light with more water: excess moisture suffocates the roots.

Botanical reference and photograph: Monstera deliciosa on Wikimedia Commons.

2. Epipremnum aureum: the nearly indestructible Pothos

The Pothos, or devil's ivy, is a supple vine that can trail from a hanging basket or climb a support. It's particularly useful for greening up a bookshelf, a bright kitchen, or a corner where other plants would grow slowly. The 'Golden', 'Marble Queen' and 'Neon' cultivars offer very different foliage.

  • Light: from low to bright, always indirect; variegated varieties keep their colours better in good light.
  • Watering: moderate; wait for the surface of the potting mix to dry before watering again.
  • Pruning: pinch the tips to bush the plant out, and take stem cuttings in water or substrate.
  • Common problems: yellow leaves from watering too often, bare stems from insufficient light.

The Pothos tolerates the occasional missed watering, but "easy" doesn't mean "no light needed." A sheer-curtained window or a grow light will help it keep dense foliage. The Missouri Botanical Garden describes in particular the 'Neon' cultivar, well suited to hanging baskets and supports.

3. Philodendron hederaceum: the heart that climbs or trails

With its heart-shaped leaves, Philodendron hederaceum is a safe bet for a cosy interior. Its habit is similar to the Pothos, but its foliage is generally finer, and its stems root very readily from cuttings. It can be hung, left to trail, or trained onto a small trellis.

  • Light: medium to bright and indirect; avoid direct rays, which mark the leaves.
  • Watering: once the top of the potting mix is dry, reducing frequency during dark winter days.
  • Repotting: every two or three years, or once the roots fill the pot.
  • Pruning: cut above a node to encourage branching, and replant the cuttings in the same pot.

Philodendrons enjoy a rich but porous substrate. The RHS guide to philodendrons points out the value of suitable light and a stable indoor temperature. Variegated forms, such as 'Brasil' or 'Pink Princess', generally need more light to keep their contrast; too much shade makes them leggier and less colourful.

4. Spathiphyllum: the flowering "peace lily"

The Spathiphyllum offers lush foliage and white spathes that can appear several times a year once the plant is well established. It suits a bright spot without direct sun and often signals thirst through temporary wilting. That signal shouldn't, however, become a systematic watering method: it's better to check the potting mix instead.

  • Light: medium to bright, filtered; too little light limits flowering.
  • Watering: regular but with no standing water; empty the saucer after a few minutes.
  • Humidity: enjoys a fairly humid atmosphere and gentle cleaning of the leaves.
  • Pruning: remove faded spathes at their base and damaged leaves with a clean tool.

The RHS lists the Spathiphyllum among the tropical Araceae valued indoors and notes that Spathiphyllum wallisii can reach around 60 cm under good growing conditions. Don't place the plant against a radiator: hot, dry air speeds up leaf dehydration.

5. Anthurium andraeanum: colourful spathes all year round

The Anthurium, or "flamingo flower," is ideal for adding a splash of colour. Its red, pink, white or green spathes are often mistaken for flowers, but are in fact bracts surrounding the spadix. The plant stays relatively compact, which makes it suited to a bright windowsill, provided it's protected from direct sun.

  • Light: bright but indirect; too little light reduces flowering.
  • Temperature: warm and stable, ideally between 16 and 30°C; protect it from cold.
  • Humidity: high; a bright bathroom can suit it well.
  • Substrate: open, acidic and very free-draining, close to an orchid mix.
  • Water: prefer filtered, rain, or rested tap water at room temperature if your tap water is hard.

The RHS recommends indirect light, a humid atmosphere and an airy substrate for Anthuriums. Leaves that brown at the edges may signal air that's too dry, sun that's too strong, or a build-up of salts in the substrate: check all the conditions before changing your watering routine.

6. Zamioculcas zamiifolia: the ZZ plant for the forgetful

The ZZ plant stands out for its thick, glossy leaflets carried on upright stems. Its underground organs store water, allowing it to get through dry spells better than thin-leaved tropical species. It's one of the best plants for an office or a flat where you can't water every week.

  • Light: from low to bright indirect; growth is faster near a bright window.
  • Watering: sparing; let a good part of the substrate dry out before watering thoroughly and then draining.
  • Pot: must have drainage holes, with a very free-draining mix.
  • Care: dust the leaflets and rotate the pot to avoid lopsided growth.

The main mistake is treating the ZZ plant as if it were thirsty. In winter or in a dim room, the interval between waterings can be long. The RHS presents the ZZ as an architectural, drought-tolerant plant; patience is therefore more useful than a watering can.

7. Alocasia: foliage for the collector

Alocasias charm with their arrow-shaped leaves, pale veins and sometimes striped petioles. 'Frydek', 'Polly' and 'Zebrina' are common choices for the home, but they're more demanding than the Pothos or the ZZ plant. They want warmth, good humidity, and a substrate that stays slightly moist without being waterlogged.

  • Light: good indirect light; avoid direct sun and dark corners.
  • Watering: once the surface dries out, without letting the pot sit soaked.
  • Humidity: high and stable; group plants together or use a humidifier rather than constantly misting the foliage.
  • Temperature: avoid cold draughts and low temperatures.
  • Monitoring: regularly check the underside of the leaves for mites, mealybugs or thrips.

An Alocasia can lose a leaf after being moved, a change of season, or a drop in temperature. Only remove leaves that are completely yellow, and correct the underlying cause first. Information from the Missouri Botanical Garden on the genus Alocasia confirms its preference for filtered light, humidity and rich but well-drained substrates.

8. Dieffenbachia: a bold, generous plant

The Dieffenbachia quickly fills a space thanks to its large leaves marked with cream, yellow or light green. Its upright habit suits a floor-standing pot cover in a bright living room without harsh sun. It tolerates the occasional missed watering, but its growth will be more even with regular watering and a draught-free atmosphere.

  • Light: medium to bright indirect; heavily variegated cultivars need more brightness.
  • Watering: once the top few centimetres dry out; reduce in winter.
  • Substrate: rich but well-drained, in a stable pot.
  • Care: remove damaged lower leaves and turn the plant a quarter turn each week.

The Dieffenbachia contains calcium oxalate crystals. It should therefore be kept out of reach of children and pets. The ASPCA reports toxicity for dogs and cats, with mouth irritation, drooling and difficulty swallowing among the effects of ingestion.

9. Syngonium podophyllum: compact, supple and versatile

The Syngonium podophyllum often starts out as a small clump of arrow-shaped leaves, then becomes climbing as it matures. It's perfect for a shelf, a hanging basket, or a low support. Green, cream, pink or variegated cultivars let you match it to any interior style.

  • Light: indirect, medium to bright; protect pale cultivars from direct sun.
  • Watering: moderate and regular, letting the surface dry between waterings.
  • Pruning: pinch young shoots to keep a bushy habit, or let the stems climb.
  • Propagation: stem cuttings with at least one node, in water or a light substrate.

The Syngonium enjoys warmth and normal to high humidity. A leaf that pales or becomes leggy more often signals a lack of light than a need for fertiliser. Fertilise lightly in spring and summer, only while the plant is actively growing.

10. Aglaonema: colourful foliage for dimmer rooms

The Aglaonema is a bushy Araceae, valued for its oval leaves variegated with silver, cream or pink. It generally stays more compact than a Monstera or a large Dieffenbachia and tolerates moderate light. It's a good choice for a piece of furniture away from the window, provided the room still gets some natural light.

  • Light: medium and indirect; variegated varieties keep their colours better in brighter light.
  • Watering: once the surface of the substrate dries out, without excess water in the saucer.
  • Humidity: a moderate atmosphere suits it, with better growth if the air isn't too dry.
  • Care: clean the leaves and remove weak stems to keep a balanced clump.

Avoid sudden temperature changes and cold draughts. Like other indoor aroids, the Aglaonema should be kept out of reach of pets that chew on leaves. The ASPCA includes Aglaonema among houseplants that can cause trouble for pets.

How to care for an Araceae indoors?

Finding the right distance from the window

Bright indirect light generally means a spot near a window with sheer curtains, but not pressed against a scorching pane of glass. Leaves that turn pale, dry out, or develop light patches may have received too much sun. Conversely, long stems, widely spaced internodes and fading variegation often indicate insufficient light.

Water according to the substrate, not the calendar

Feel the potting mix before reaching for the watering can. For most Araceae, water once the top layer has dried out, then let the water drain through the pot's holes. Empty the saucer or the pot cover. The ZZ plant needs far less water than the Spathiphyllum or the Alocasia; using the same schedule for every species is therefore a common cause of root rot.

Preparing an airy mix

All-purpose potting soil on its own can become compacted. Depending on the species, add fine bark, coconut fibre or perlite. The mix should retain a little moisture while still letting air through. Repot in spring or once the roots emerge from the pot, without choosing a container that's far too large: a disproportionate volume of soil stays wet for too long.

Managing humidity and leaves

Tropical species enjoy consistent humidity, especially once the heating is on. A humidifier, grouping plants together, or a naturally humid room is more effective than occasional misting. Wipe the leaves with a soft cloth to remove dust and check for pests. High humidity doesn't remove the need for good air circulation.

Fertilising in moderation

In spring and summer, a balanced liquid fertiliser, diluted according to the label, can support growth every few weeks. Don't fertilise a dehydrated, sick plant, or one sitting in waterlogged substrate. Reduce or stop feeding during the dark, cold season.

Araceae and pets: an essential precaution

Pothos, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, Dieffenbachia, ZZ, Monstera and Anthurium are among the houseplants flagged by the ASPCA as potentially problematic for pets. Insoluble calcium oxalate crystals can cause pain and irritation of the mouth, drooling, vomiting or difficulty swallowing.

That doesn't mean giving up on plants altogether: place pots on an inaccessible shelf, use a secure hanging basket, and check the botanical name before buying. If ingestion is suspected, contact a vet promptly. The ASPCA also notes that "lilies" don't all refer to the same plant: Lilium and Hemerocallis pose a particularly serious risk to cats, while the Spathiphyllum is a different plant, generally with a different, milder risk of mouth irritation.

Which Araceae should you choose for your home?

  • To get started: Pothos, ZZ, or Philodendron hederaceum.
  • For a large living-room plant: Monstera deliciosa or Dieffenbachia.
  • For flowers: Anthurium or Spathiphyllum.
  • For collector's foliage: Alocasia.
  • For a hanging basket: Pothos, Philodendron or Syngonium.
  • For moderate light: Aglaonema or green Pothos.
  • With a cat or dog that chews on plants: none of these ten Araceae should be considered automatically safe; favour a plant confirmed as non-toxic after checking with a veterinary source, and keep it out of reach.

The best choice isn't necessarily the most spectacular plant, but the one whose needs match your room and your habits. A well-placed Araceae, watered only when necessary and repotted in a free-draining substrate, can stay decorative for many years.

Sources

Related articles

← Back to articles